Roaming In Rome
Today was our only full day in Rome and though I’ve been here before, it was Molly’s first time in the Eternal City. We had so much to see and do, it was a little overwhelming. We decided before we got here that we wouldn’t book into any formal tours because we didn’t really have time, so we read lots of online forums and blogs about how to see Rome in one day and worked out a bit of a plan. We were a fairly slow off the mark, starting with a FaceTime with the family and generally procrastinating about getting in the shower. By the time we headed out the door it was almost lunch time!
It was a stifling 35 degrees and we thought we should get something to eat, lest we pass out on the pavement as we were yet to have brekky. Seating ourselves at a cute little alfresco restaurant in the shadow of the Colosseum, we were in the direct line of fire for the squirty water vapour machine (technical name), spraying cool mist all over us as we ate. It definitely cooled us down and at times came out with such gusto, we were channelling Sigourney Weaver as she searched for primates in the fog. We couldn’t even see each other from across the table. Molly even Googled “can you drown from inhaling too much water vapour?'“ The restaurant had a broken EFTpos machine and when I was seriously thinking we’d be washing the dishes, I found some euros tucked in a corner of my wallet. Crisis averted.
Once the bill was settled and the mist had cleared, we set off for the most famous of all arenas - where gladiators and lions once battled it out - the colossal Colosseum. There was a healthy crowd gathering and it was unclear whether we were allowed inside for a peek without a ticket or whether we were required to join the gargantuan queue in the blazing sun, to acquire one. An online search told us we would definitely not be allowed in without a ticket so we ummed and ahhed about what to do. Guys with official looking lanyards told us we could go straight in if we joined a tour but they wanted to charge us twice the going rate. Eventually, after much deliberation, we decided just to do a lap around the outside of the big arena and forgo seeing the inside. We trekked up towards Palatine Hill ad the Forum but again, weren’t allowed past the checkpoint without a ticket. (I know, a bit of research on our behalf wouldn’t have gone astray). We snapped the QR code and purchased our tickets and finally got to stride up the hill-once we’d gone through the x-ray machine and proven we had no machetes, guns, pocket knives or Samurai swords in our possession -towards the ancient ruins.
It really is such a buzz to see history like this on such a grand scale. All those important buildings, statues and monuments all still standing (more or less) after SO many years. We were struck by just how enormous some of the columns in the temples were and by the intricate carvings and details on the facades of the walls. Wandering through the garden at the top of the hill, as they piped violin concertos through strategically placed speakers, we could look out over the vast array of sprawling architectural fragments and ruins and be blown away by what is essentially a huge open air museum. It’s insane.
The most popular place for the ancient Rome enthusiasts to gather today, was around the water fountains, spread throughout the area, as it was seriously warm walking around with very little shade. We saw a maintenance man with a hose and tried to ask him to spray us down. Unfortunately, with a bit of a giggle, he declined. I’m sure he knew he’d have a long queue of eager and hot punters ready for the same treatment if he’d obliged.
It’s amazing to see so many artefacts and broken pieces of temples and columns just kicking around the place. Instead of being placed behind glass in an important museum somewhere in the world, they are just lying around for people to use as seats. We took a break, resting our derrières on a couple of broken ancient columns. Incredible!
After a few hours walking around, we were relieved to get out of the sun and hit the cafeteria for some icy cold water. Loud peals of thunder were ringing out, teasing us at the possibility of some cooling rain (that sadly never came). As we walked along the main street, under the very Roman trees that look like they are straight out of a Dr Seuss book, there were some fantastic buskers - guitar and drums - giving the place a great atmosphere.
Then it was a quick cool down in our hotel room while Molly reminisced, watching the Lizzie McGuire movie, set in Rome. She was humming “Hey now, hey now…this is what dreams are made of” for the rest of the day.
Our destination this afternoon was the Pantheon and we’d left ourselves very little time to get there before they shut the doors for the day. Molly expertly navigated us through the cobbled streets so we made it just by the skin of our teeth and it was actually a good time to visit as the crowds were waning a little. The sun was beaming down through the hole in the centre of the room, shedding its glow around this amazing architectural wonder.
Thankfully our hotel is in a really central location, but our little legs have been getting a good workout, pounding the pavement relentlessly. We have been gauging how far away a place is, by how many minutes’ walk it will be and then assessing whether or not we have the energy to make it. Tonight we were keen to go over the bridge to opposite bank of the Tiber, visiting the hip and happening area of Trastevere. It was a 20 minute walk and neither of us could muster the enthusiasm or the energy to walk that far. The alternative was a 6 minute cab ride. That sounded much more appealing. Our cabbie was delightful; a proud Roman, born and bred within a hop, skip and jump from the Colosseum. He doubled as a tour guide as he drove, pointing out all the sights, giving us locals-only tidbits of info about each of the neighbourhoods we were cruising. One neighbourhood in particular got a rave review, apparently the best address in Rome. I asked our friendly driver if this was in fact where he lived and he answered with a resounding “of course!”
Trastevere was gorgeous with Vespers and vines adorning every street. We dined at a quirky little place Called “Ditta Trinchetti”, with delicious food and cute decor. After dinner it was a sweaty walk home with a mandatory ice cream stop - Maisy’s recommendation, with 150 mouth-watering flavours to choose from. After all, we all know that famous old adage: a gelato-a-day keeps the doctor away.
Ciao, ciao!
